Yufuin Onsen Trip: Yunotsubo Street, Lake Kinrin & a Night at a Ryokan

Yufuin Onsen Trip collage: Mt. Yufu, Yunotsubo Street, a mame shiba cafe, a horse-drawn carriage, Lake Kinrin and a ryokan dinner in Oita Food & Drink

Yufuin is a small hot spring town in the mountains of Oita, and it was the last stop on our October 2024 trip around Kyushu. After a day at Huis Ten Bosch in Nagasaki and a day exploring Dazaifu and Munakata in Fukuoka, we drove inland to Yufuin for a slower day of street food, a quiet lake and a night at a traditional ryokan.

In this article, I’ll share how easy the drive from Fukuoka Airport to Yufuin was, what it’s like to snack your way down Yunotsubo Street to Lake Kinrin, and how we spent our night soaking in the onsen at Kahori no Sato Hanamura.

Driving from Fukuoka Airport to Yufuin

We picked up a rental car near Fukuoka Airport and drove to Yufuin. It was my first time on this route, but it turned out to be much easier than I expected. Most of the way is a straightforward run along the Oita Expressway, and the drive takes roughly two hours. If you’re comfortable driving in Japan, a car is a relaxed way to get to Yufuin with your luggage, and it lets you head straight back to the airport the next day.

Snacking Along Yunotsubo Street

Yunotsubo Street is the main walking street of Yufuin, running from the area near Yufuin Station toward Lake Kinrin. It’s lined with small shops, cafés and food stalls, and the best way to enjoy it is to take your time and eat a little bit of everything along the way.

You’ll also spot Yufuin’s horse-drawn sightseeing carriages around town. We didn’t ride one this time, but seeing a carriage parked by the road with the mountains behind it made for a lovely photo.

We ended up eating a lot more than we planned: fluffy Yufuin castella, sweet dango on a stick, warm oyaki, wagyu sushi, fried chicken, and of course a cold local beer to wash it all down. What surprised me was the prices. For such a popular tourist spot, the food was noticeably cheaper than at tourist areas back home in Shizuoka, which made it even easier to keep trying one more thing.

Mt. Yufu rising above the rooftops of Yufuin under a clear blue sky
Toasting with two cups of local dark beer on Yunotsubo Street, with Mt. Yufu in the background
A soft steamed bun with a savory filling, a street food snack from Yufuin
A red Mini parked in front of an ivy-covered shop along Yunotsubo Street in Yufuin
Moomin figures and a Tom and Jerry sign outside a character goods shop in Yufuin
My son sitting on the tatami floor with a black and a red mame shiba at the Mameshiba Cafe in Yufuin
A mame shiba rolling over for belly rubs on the tatami floor at the Mameshiba Cafe in Yufuin

A Stop at Lake Kinrin

At the end of Yunotsubo Street is Lake Kinrin, a small, calm lake with Mt. Yufu rising behind the town. The lake is fed by springs, including warm water, which is why it’s famous for the morning mist that rises from its surface on cold days. Even in the afternoon it’s a peaceful place to take a short walk around the water and rest your feet after all that snacking.

Lake Kinrin in Yufuin reflecting the clouds and the forested hills in the late afternoon

Dinner and Onsen at Kahori no Sato Hanamura

The entrance of Kahori no Sato Hanamura, a ryokan in Yufuin, with its stone name sign

For the night, we stayed at Kahori no Sato Hanamura, a ryokan in Yufuin. Staying at a ryokan is one of the best parts of visiting a hot spring town: you check in, change into a yukata, and the rest of the evening is all about good food and a long soak in the onsen.

Dinner was the highlight of the stay. It was a beautiful, generous course, with one dish after another, and every single one was delicious. It felt like a real treat after a day of walking and snacking.

The first dishes of the kaiseki-style dinner course at Kahori no Sato Hanamura
Chawanmushi, small side dishes and the handwritten menu at the ryokan dinner in Yufuin
Marbled wagyu beef ready for the tabletop grill and a baked fish dish at the ryokan dinner
Wagyu beef, salmon, mushrooms and peppers cooking on a tabletop grill at dinner
A bottle of local sake with two wooden cups in our room at the ryokan

After dinner, we relaxed in the hot spring. Soaking in the warm water after a day of walking and driving was the perfect way to end our time in Kyushu.

The lobby lounge of Kahori no Sato Hanamura with tree-stump tables and Tiffany-style lamps
View of the ryokan lobby from above, with chandeliers and a colorful stained glass window
A sunken hearth-style table with large ceramic bowls in the ryokan lounge
Our guest room at Kahori no Sato Hanamura with two beds and patterned wallpaper

Breakfast and the Drive Back to Fukuoka Airport

The next morning, we had breakfast at the ryokan before checking out. Then we drove back along the same easy route to Fukuoka Airport, returned the rental car and flew home.

Breakfast was just as impressive as dinner. The table was covered with small side dishes full of local Kyushu flavors, so many that we could hardly finish them all. It was a filling, happy start to our last day before the drive back.

Breakfast at the ryokan in Yufuin with grilled salmon and many small side dishes
A breakfast table full of small dishes, tofu and hot pots at Kahori no Sato Hanamura
A cup of coffee in the ryokan lounge before checking out

Tips for Visiting Yufuin

  • Getting there by car: From Fukuoka Airport, it’s roughly a two-hour drive, mostly on the expressway. The route is simple even if you’ve never driven it before.
  • Come hungry: Yunotsubo Street is made for grazing, so plan a light lunch and snack as you walk.
  • Walk to Lake Kinrin: Follow Yunotsubo Street to the end and finish at the lake. If you’re staying overnight, an early morning visit on a cold day is your chance to see the mist.
  • Stay the night: Yufuin is best enjoyed slowly. A night at a ryokan with dinner, an onsen and breakfast makes the trip feel complete.

Yufuin was a relaxing way to finish our Kyushu trip after two busy days in Nagasaki and Fukuoka. If you’re planning a trip around Kyushu, I’d recommend saving a night in Yufuin for the end, when you’re ready to slow down and soak it all in.

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