Day 3 in Yakushima — Hiking to Jomon Sugi!

Woke up at 3:00 AM in the middle of the night.

Got ready and met up with the group in the hotel lobby at 3:50. Our guide joined us too, and we set off from the hotel at 4:00 AM.

At the bus stop heading to the trailhead, the hotel had prepared onigiri (rice balls) for our breakfast — so thoughtful! We used the restroom, grabbed our snacks, and hopped on the bus.

We’d already bought our bus tickets on the day we arrived in Yakushima, so that was one less thing to worry about. Apparently, during peak season the bus stop gets absolutely packed — but because the day before had been a total storm (all flights and ferries were cancelled), there were very few people heading out. We lucked out big time!

About 30 minutes later, we arrived at Arakawa Trailhead. Made one last restroom stop, adjusted our shoelaces and backpacks, and started climbing right at 5:00 AM.

It was still pretty dim outside, but not dark enough to need a flashlight — though that really depends on the season.

We made our way along the uneven trolley tracks, one step at a time.

🏔️ Our Group & The Morning Trail

Our group was made up of women in their late 50s to early 60s. Some of them don’t exercise regularly, so I was a little worried — but everyone started off with a spring in their step and great energy.

As the sky gradually brightened, we were treated to mountain azaleas and cherry blossoms along the way. It was so lovely to walk through nature in full bloom.

After the previous day’s storm, water was streaming down from everywhere — but it was crystal clear and ice cold. The mountain spring water here is pure enough to drink straight without filtering, and there are hoses set up at several spots so you can easily refill your bottles. No filtration needed — it’s the real deal, straight from the mountain.

⛩️ A Hidden Shrine — Oyamazumi Shrine

Our first sightseeing stop was a hidden gem — a shrine that’s not normally included in standard tours.

This shrine is dedicated to the god of the mountains. Historically, it was a place where workers prayed for safety during mountain labor. These days, hikers visit to pray for a safe journey up and back. It felt really special to visit somewhere off the beaten path.

🌿 The Forest Trail

Back on the Jomon Sugi route, we continued through the forest. Every single thing in sight was stunning — the trees, the wildflowers, the moss. I kept stopping to take photos every few steps. There were tiny streams everywhere too, and naturally I found myself looking for little creatures… but our guide told us: “The streams in Yakushima are too clean — there are no fish!”

So pure that life can’t sustain itself — that was a real eye-opener for me.

👟 Gear Talk — Trekking Shoes

The trolley tracks require your full attention — look away for a second and you could easily trip. Proper trekking shoes are a must here. Just like on Mount Fuji, loafers or sandals are absolutely not an option.

My personal favorite shoes are Altra (an American brand) — I use them for trail running all the time, even on mossy, wet terrain. But for this hike I wore Merrell trekking shoes. The fit is soft, the soles are grippy and stable — I’d highly recommend them.

Our guide was wearing Altra’s Gore-Tex model and honestly, they looked so cool I wanted a pair immediately. Apparently among guides, it’s mostly Altra or Hoka One One. I’ve worn Hoka too — great shoes, but the soles wear down faster than I’d like. Altra, on the other hand, holds up really well even after lots of miles.

👟 My trekking shoes for this hike → Check on Amazon

メレル モアブ 3 シンセティック ミッド ゴアテックス 靴 シューズ ウィメンズ レディース ハイキングシューズ 防水 防滑 アウトドアシューズ ミッドカット 登山 山登り トレッキングシューズ ヴィブラム MOAB 3 SYNTHETIC MID GORE-TEX MERRELL 価格：20,790円（税込、送料無料) (2026/5/6時点) 楽天で購入

⚠️ Note: The Rakuten link above is for purchasing within Japan only. If you’re shopping from outside Japan, please use the Amazon link instead.

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❤️ Wilson Stump — The Heart Photo Spot

After over two hours of a relaxed pace, we reached our checkpoint: Wilson Stump.

If you crouch down and look up through the hollow of the stump, you can see a perfect heart shape — it’s one of the most popular photo spots for tourists. I went a little snap-happy and took photos from every possible angle!

Beyond this point, the trail gets noticeably steeper. It’s the natural decision point — if your body is telling you it’s had enough, this is where you turn back. On this trip, one of our members reached her limit here. Her legs were completely done. I’d been helping carry her backpack, but our guide made the call that the steeper terrain ahead would make support too difficult. She headed back down with one of our two guides.

🚽 Restroom Situation on the Trail

There are only 2 bio-toilets along the entire route. Beyond that, there are a few basic tents set up where you use a portable toilet that you bring yourself.

During peak season, there’s apparently quite a queue at the bio-toilets — especially for women. Today, with so few hikers, we had zero wait time. Another win for us!

Essentials for this hike: portable toilet + toilet paper. Non-negotiable. You can refill water on the mountain, but there are no shops or vending machines selling food or supplies, so come fully prepared!

🌲 The Final Stretch & Hidden Shapes in the Forest

From Wilson Stump onward, the trail gets wild — scrambling up with your hands, crossing wobbly wooden planks… honestly, I loved every second of it.

Along the way, there are ancient fallen Yakusugi cedars covered in moss, and if you look closely, some of them look like whales, or fish, or deer! Spotting the shapes as you walk is such a fun game.

🎉 We Made It — Jomon Sugi!

We started at 5:00 AM and arrived at noon — a relaxed pace, all things considered. And with the return journey ahead, once we’d had our fill of photos and soaked it all in, it was time for lunch and the trek back down.

Lunch was the onigiri the hotel had prepared alongside our breakfast. Simple, but absolutely perfect in that moment.

Our guide also surprised us with warm miso soup — such a thoughtful touch. I noticed another group nearby had their guide brewing coffee for them. That kind of warm Japanese hospitality never gets old.

🦌 A Surprise on the Way Back — Baby Deer!

On the way back, we picked up the pace and kept rest stops short. But then — the moment we’d been waiting for: a Yakushima deer. And it was a fawn.

Unbelievably cute. I filmed video and took so many photos. The little one had zero fear of humans — just stood right nearby, happily munching on leaves without a care in the world.

This whole hike felt like one lucky moment after another. So many memories made.

🚌 Wrap-Up

We reached the trailhead just before 5:00 PM, and barely made it onto the 5:00 PM bus. Everyone was absolutely exhausted — but every single face was glowing with satisfaction.

What an incredible day on Yakushima. 🌿

📢 Affiliate Disclosure
This blog contains affiliate links from Amazon and Rakuten. If you make a purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for your support — it helps me keep sharing travel stories and tips! 🙏

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