From Mishima in Shizuoka, Tokyo is just about an hour by Shinkansen — or under two hours by highway bus. It’s close enough that I head to Tokyo every now and then, but this time I decided to stay overnight at a hotel and take things slow.
This was actually my first time visiting Monzen-Nakacho, and I was completely charmed by its nostalgic, old-school Tokyo atmosphere — way more than I expected. So today, I want to share my Monzen-Nakacho experience with you.
Where I Stayed: Keisei Richmond Hotel Monzen-Nakacho
I stayed at the 📍Keisei Richmond Hotel Monzen-Nakacho, which is super close to the station. The front desk staff were genuinely friendly and welcoming, and the check-in process was smooth and polite.
They had a nice welcome drink, and the amenities covered all the basics. The room felt clean and fresh, and the bathroom area was spotless.
Honestly, I usually have a bit of a dust allergy reaction whenever I check into hotels — but here, my nose was totally fine! (I always carry my allergy meds just in case, though.)
A lot of the guests seemed to be international travelers, but everyone I crossed paths with — in the elevator, in the hallway — had this calm, easy-going vibe. Just really pleasant people.
“Monnaka” — A Slice of Showa Retro Tokyo
Monzen-Nakacho is a great spot if you love that Showa-era retro vibe. The locals affectionately call it “Monnaka” — a cute shortened nickname.
While my family relaxed at the hotel, I went out for a solo stroll through Monnaka. Right near the hotel are Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine and Naritasan Fukagawa Fudo-do Temple — basically a dream combo for shrine and temple lovers like me.
Tomioka Hachimangu had a beautiful, well-kept precinct, but what really blew me away was Naritasan Fukagawa Fudo-do. Their precinct features this incredible modern building decorated with Sanskrit motifs — a beautiful fusion of traditional Buddhism and modern design. It seriously impressed me.
If you can, I really recommend seeing it lit up at night — the atmosphere is something you have to experience in person.
Since it was already evening by the time I got there, I decided to come back for the goshuin (shrine stamps) the next day.
A Tiny Showa-Style Drinking Alley I Stumbled Upon
On my way back to the hotel, I’d noticed a tiny little drinking alley with serious Showa-retro vibes — and I had to check it out. The atmosphere was just so charming.
I went solo into a standing bar called “Wain Gohan” (和いん御はん) — a tiny corner spot. The interior is just a counter with maybe room for 6 people (it gets cozy fast). Behind the counter was a kind-looking master, and the TV was on sumo — probably because Ryogoku is right nearby. The regulars were chatting and watching the matches together.
Customers came and went throughout the evening, and the regulars were so friendly — they actually struck up conversations with me, and I had such a fun time. When they found out I’d come from out of town, they started recommending their favorite cafes and restaurants. It honestly felt like getting the local shitamachi hospitality treatment.
This place is definitely going on my “must return soon” list.
Round Two: Chicken Wings & Beer at “Tebabii”
After meeting back up with my husband, we headed to our second stop of the night — “Tebabii” (てばびぃ), a standing bar specializing in chicken wings and beer. It’s on the second floor of a building along a main street.
The vibe was completely different from the first place — lively, energetic, packed with people. We didn’t really get to chat with the staff since it was so busy, but the chicken wing karaage with sweet-spicy sauce was incredibly good. The “spicy” version had a perfect kick — not too overwhelming. The motsu-nikomi (simmered offal) was deeply flavorful — clearly slow-cooked with care.
Day 2: Bagels, Goshuin, and Sacred Dance
The next day, I had planned to visit Blue Bottle Coffee, but I ended up enjoying the slow morning at the hotel a little too much. Instead, I grabbed bagels to-go from a local bagel specialty shop nearby and headed back to Tomioka Hachimangu and Naritasan Fukagawa Fudo-do to get my goshuin.
At Tomioka Hachimangu’s main hall, I was lucky enough to catch a miko (shrine maiden) practicing her sacred dance. It was such a precious, rare thing to witness — I felt really lucky to be there at that moment.
After that, I got my goshuin properly stamped at both places.
Blue Bottle Coffee — the historic flagship cafe — is now firmly on my list for next time. Definitely going there on my next visit.
Final Thoughts
It was just one evening and a morning — but Monzen-Nakacho gave me such a rich, memorable experience. After our morning in Monnaka, my family and I headed to Roppongi Hills for a serious meat feast at Barbacoa before making our way home.
If you are looking for a Tokyo neighborhood that still holds onto that nostalgic, down-to-earth, old Tokyo feel — somewhere a little off the typical tourist track — I cannot recommend Monnaka enough. Locals are warm, the food is honest and delicious, and the shrines and temples have real character.
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